Friday, August 29, 2008

Home Sweet Home



Our flight home seemed faster and more comfortable than our flight into China. Maybe it was the exit seats with extra leg space and convenience to stand up without having to bother someone. We flew out via the same route we flew in, through Seattle-Tokyo and same thing back.

While attempting your connecting flight in Tokyo you must pass through a security point even though you are inside where all the gates are. The first time we had no issues, except that Mike forgot to take his laptop out of bag. Coming back from China they gave me a hard time for not having all my liquid toiletries in "Ziploc" bag. Mind you the inside of my toiletry bag is all clear plastic so you can easily and clearly see everything I carry in there. So I had it all completely open and easily accessible like last time. This time they made me take everything liquid or gel out and put it in a Ziploc bag. Not any other kind of plastic bag it had to be Ziploc TM! We had bought a few perfumes and cologne at the duty free shop in Beijing and we even had to take them all out of their stiff clear plastic boxes and put them in the trusty Ziploc product.

I wonder if Ziploc is the official sponsor of security check points at the airports....



I usually can stay longer in the places I'm travelling, but this time I was really pining for home long before the Olympics were over on Sunday. It might have something to do with this cute little guy. It also felt really good when the customs officer said: "Welcome home!" Never has it been so good to come home.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Ren's biased experiences in China.



My experiences in the last two and a half weeks in China, has blossomed into a love-hate relationship with its people and culture. I've had some interesting experiences while here so far, here are somethings that surprised me about China:

1. The massiveness of buildings. Everything here is built to super-size scale, that's the commercial buildings. Think of Las Vegas hotels and make their size the norm in Beijing. Whether it's a hotel or not, it's that big.

2. In contrast, the hutongs (cities within cities) are tiny cities with the smallest streets and some date to the 14th century. We finally toured a hutong a couple of days ago, and Mike was very offended that I still thought of them as resembling slums. That's my opinion and last time I checked I'm entitled to one since I live in the land of the FREE. I know they are ancient and therefore should be venerated, and are finally now being preserved as part of their heritage, but you can tell when you look inside the little doors going into the houses that there's dirt and lots of paper boxes organized at the entrance then lots of little things cluttered around them. The courtyard house we went to was delightful. All the rooms are completely enclosed from each other and the only access to them was through the courtyard, that included the kitchen too. But they were all suites with baths. Very interesting way of planning. Not all homes are like that, but to be fair they are not shanty towns. The government has put up Olympic graphics on walls all around the hutongs so one can barely notice them.



3. I have to figure out this one out, but they hardly have toilets in China. It's also very hard to find toilet paper, even in the Olympic venues. That I'm still not used to. If you've travelled around the world you may know that I'm talking about. I've seen a toilet like theirs once in Italy at a train station. It's a hole on the floor with an under mounted pan that simulates a toilet bowl, you squat to do your duty. Trust me for a pregnant woman it's hell. I don't know if they think that this way of relieving oneself is more hygienic because you don't have to sit where others do, because if they do I can argue the opposite. I won't go into details it's TMI. So Mike kept complaining that I was being too judgemental of the Chinese and their bathrooms until he had to go #2 at the Volleyball venue and rated his experience very low. He said: "I wish you would have warned me." What was I supposed to do? I had complained so much that I don't know what else he wanted me to tell him.



4. We've been having fun eating in China. When you ask for noodles or rice with a type of meat, you will not know what part of the specified animal you are eating. Well, you can tell for the most part. i.e.: I order chicken curry with rice and there were bones and tendons and all kinds of chicken parts that I usually don't see at Teriaki Stix. Being a picky eater already, I've had to pick even more at my food, now try picking at your food with chopsticks.. However, the food has been very tasty, the spices add so much to the flavor. When Mike wrote about his experiences he was trying to defend this very post which I had written before and have since deleted it and added to it. Maybe I haven't lived in the US long enough, but I've not even seen a whole chicken, duck or it's innards offered in the menu. They do have sweet and sour pork here, we ate it three days ago.


5. Chinese people don't understand lines. Now that's not all of them thank goodness. At any given time a Chinese will butt in line or even push you out of the way to order at a concession stand, or go into a bathroom stall. For those of you who know me well, I can't accept that. I'll do to you what you do to me. So last night a lady was trying to go in front of me into the bathroom and I got in front of her and would not let her go, and it happened again on Sunday after the Brazil x USA game. I yelled at her to go back in line. On the other hand some have actually yelled at their countrymen for being rude and told people to wait their turn. Yesterday we went to the Forbidden City and then a park up the hill across the street. On the top there was a pagoda with a Buddha statue and people were paying tribute to him. There were 4 doors, one on each side of the pagoda which overlooked the whole city. Mike was standing on this 10" metal weatherstripping of sorts at one of the doors and I had one foot leaning on it. This guy came over and asked Mike to get off and he did. Then he complained about my foot so I purposely moved one foot out so that had one foot in the room and one foot out of the pagoda. The guy told me to not do that and move both feet out, I put my foot inside so my whole body was still inside the pagoda. The guy give me a fake grin and went back to take care of his Buddha. Mike got all mad that I was giving the guy a hard time. Was I? Or was it the other way around? You can argue both ways. They do weird stuff all the time, but I'm not allowed to. hmmmmm.... We walked to the National Opera House which is one of those amazing architectural gems of the 21st century and there were a bunch of people resting on the steps inside the opera house. So I sat down too. Then a guard comes to us and tells us we cannot sit there, so we get up. Around a little hedge of plants from us there were about 10 Chinese sitting on the same steps with a guard in front of them and he said nothing. So I went right behind them and sat down. It wasn't 2 minutes later the guard told all of them to move, some did and others didn't. We moved because I was ready to kungfu them. I mumbled an expletive to myself. I'm so ready to go home where nobody seems to care where I sit.

6. Traffic laws do not apply in China. One would think they've only had roads in the past 6 months. We're getting somewhat used to it, but it's seriously ridiculous. We've heard a rumor that 85,000 die in the roads of Beijing yearly. Whether driving, biking or walking you can expect a car to turn left when the light is red and there 4 lanes of incoming traffic coming towards him; pedestrians crossing 4 lanes of traffic or just standing in the middle of the road when the pedestrian light is red. A Lexus RX350 cut off a corner and missed me by 6 inches while I was crossing the road when the pedestrian light was green and beeping for us to cross. If I had been a blind person I would have been dead.

Overall though, we've had an amazing time so far in China. I feel totally safe, the city is very clean(at least during the Olympics), the landscaping everywhere is impeccable(everywhere looks like Disney World landscaping). And Mike and I have commented plenty of times on how neat it would be to live here for a few years. Learn Chinese, learn a bit more of the culture(so I could be more forgiving of the lack of courtesy, I'm still very rough around the corners). We've met quite a few expats that live here and love it. They get paid a lot, go home 5 times a year and live like kings. I could handle that, after all that's the whole reason why we are changing our lives so drastically so we can be flexible to live wherever we want.

Mike and I have no doubt that China will be the center of the world in the next coming decades. They somewhat still lack an entrepreneurial mindset, but they've got the resources, willpower and hard work ethics to do it. Case in point, everywhere you go there are people asking you to buy something from them. They all have the same products whether at a market or just out on the street. When we climbed the steps to the little Buddha pagoda on top of the hill there were no carts selling cold drinks and there were lots of people needing a refreshment. Instead, you could take pictures in a silk dress, but there was no water. I immediately thought to myself, one guy up here and he could make pretty good money with a little cooler with water. In Brazil where I used to live there's a huge sand dune on the beach and there are always people with coconut water, or other drinks on the bottom of it because it is no longer open for the public to climb up to the summit. But in my days, when it was open there were guys selling cold coconut and water up on the top too! Now that's the spirit of making money.

Talking to a girl who sold me pearl necklaces, I found out she graduated a year ago with a degree in Accounting but she sells pearls at the silk market with her sister. I asked her why she wasn't working in accounting and she said that it was better to sell pearls. She said that foreigners are what the companies want because they know English better and because they know the world better. In essence they have a better sense of the world marketplace so both Chinese and multi-national firms prefer to hire foreigners since the Chinese have been sheltered from life in the world we know. It's sad to realize that, I'm sure even sadder for her, her country controls her news, her education, her life and then shuns them from progressing in the beginning of a marketplace revolution which is taking place in this giant country because she is not open-minded enough. I truly don't think it's her fault.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saint in China.




Renatha and I attended sacrament meeting of the LDS Church in Beijing, China on Sunday. 1) In the door to the chapel. 2) In front of the bulletin board. Notice the carving at top in Chinese and above that "Welcome to the Beijing Branch" (Enlarge the photo to see it).

There are three branches for the entire city of Beijing that meet at this downtown location. While the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is still not officially recognized in China, the Chinese government has granted permission for the members to congregate and worship. The two morning branches are comprised of expatriates and internationals, aka non-Chinese citizens (except for spouses). These two branches may not have any contact, whatsoever! (during worship services or anytime at all during the week), with the third brach that meets in the afternoon. That branch is comprised wholly of Chinese citizens who have been introduced to and converted to the faith outside of China. They may speak about and share Church beliefs with immediately family members only; so, baptisms do take place in mainland China! Non-Chinese citizens of the Faith may not proselyte, actively or passively, and the International congregations are reminded of this weekly. All branches are doing a fabulous job at maintaining positive and trustworthy relations with the Chinese government. The Gospel is peeking into the front door of China, a door that, as Elder Oaks says, "is ajar."

More Chinglish.



More Chinglish at a ticket booth outside the Beijing Zoo (What?!).

Thursday, August 21, 2008

China rising.

My friends, China is rising. That idea that you may have of a China that resembles San Francisco's Chinatown or a sweltering collection of narrow and interlacing streets littered with rickshaws and beater cars, well, you are WRONG! I'm not sure what I was expecting before I arrived in Beijing, but my eyes have been opened to what China is: A behemouth economic powerhouse: Construction everywhere, enormous and modern skyscrapers, wide and well-maintained roads, commerce and upscale shopping, and, at least in Beijing, a pervasive middle-class. Yes, the Chinese still need some etiquette lessons in forming and maintaining a proper queue (stop cutting in line!) and their public toilets are questionable at worst (I haven't been in the women's rooms, of course, so a man's perspective may be a bit more rosy since we have the option of standing and not wiping), but I have been in several delightful public loos.

Las Vegas may have more lights, more glitz, and more facade than Beijing, but not more size, and not more scale. Imagine Las Vegas's strip, an extra-wide street with Audis and Mercedes and Hyundais and BMWs and Hondas and Toyotas, shopping everywhere, from multi-leveled high-end department stores to strip malls and massive, huge, upscale hotels and office/corporate buildings and times it by a thousand. That's Beijing. Beijing . . . is . . . HUGE!

Hutongs are not necessarily slums, they are simply the older, preserved sections of the Beijing of yestercentury. Beijingers are proud of the hutongs and they are slowly being stamped out by development. There is an ongoing struggle to protect the remaining hutongs throughout the city.

It is unusual to go into a Chinese equivalent of Teriyaki Stix and see minced kidneys and whole duck (with head) on the menu, but you tell me what a Chinese person would think of mayonnaise on Jell-O or fruit cake. After travelling the world as I have, a few unusual food concoctions in a particular country is the norm. Mostly, the Chinese eat the same foods, prepared differently, that we do. Also, American Chinese food is not Chinese Chinese food. I have not seen a single morsel of sweet-and-sour pork in this country.

Generally speaking, the Chinese have been exceptionally polite. It's culturally ingrained to be accommodating. There are so many Chinese that we have encountered in the hospitality arena (hotels, restaurants, shopping, venues) that speak English! However, taxi cab drivers are conspicuously lacking in the English-speaking category; thank goodness for maps and pointing. I will say that most of our frustrations have occurred trying to get a taxi from the city to Shunyi District on the outskirts of Beijing. About one in three cab drivers say "no" to taking us home in the evening because it is somewhat out of the way. It's an economic problem only; just a cab driver trying to make a yuan. Although, last night, we were espcially put off by a driver trying to negotiate the fare before we left. He wanted 300 yuan for the trip, but Ren and I know it's between 80-100 yuan when the driver uses the meter. We got out of the cab immediately.

When driving in a foreign country, there is a style--an ebb and flow--of traffic patterns that everyone is used to. In China, it's more like Chinese than English, is all. I heard that number too, that 85,000 people die a year on Beijing streets. I SERIOUSLY doubt that number; that's 10 people and hour. Someone needs to get the facts straight. I haven't seen an accident yet in Beijing--car, person, bike, or rickshaw (I haven't seen any rickshaws period, for the record). But I will say this: cars and pedestrian and bikes and motorcycles do some crazy things on the streets that as an American in America, I would never do. It's entertaining!

China is rising. Our host, Carl, said it best: The Chinese are the original capitalists. Eventually, as the Chinese marketplace grows, the old ideals of the Communist government will be squashed by the unstoppable momentum of a burgeoning economy. No ideal contrary to the almighty yuan (or dollar or euro) can stand long against it. It is happening; I have seen it!

Chill Day in China

Today we have no events to attend. There's a slight rain outside and we thought it would be a good day to enjoy the Forbidden City. But after watching Misty and Kerry take the gold again in beach volleyball, from the comfort of the Curtis' couch, we walked to the clubhouse, had a wonderful lunch and decided to stay home for the rest of the day. I feel like I've been going 100 miles/hr since we've been here. It doesn't help being pregnant and feeling a little more tired than usual. Yesterday we had men's beach semis to watch in the morning. We spent an hour or so with an american couple that bought finals tickets from us and we spent two hours at a local eatery conversing with Jenny from Australia. Jenny used to be a swimmer and she's here attending the Olympics with her husband who is semi-retired, I think from sailing.

We've met some awesome people while in Beijing. It is the very essence of our travels, to meet and make friends with world citizens. Mike and I have started making plans for London 2012, and we're curious to see which of the four cities bidding for 2016 will get the honors. The candidates are: Tokyo, Madrid, Rio and Chicago.

After lunch with Jenny, we made our way to the Olympic Green for a quick trip to the olympic store for some souvenirs. Then we enjoyed the architecture of the Water Cube and the Women's 10M diving prelims. So today we rest and renew our spirits a weekend of volleyball. We were so lucky to be able to attend so many vball matches. This being our first olympics, we felt we needed to go to as many events as we could, but truly our hearts are into volleyball.

So here's what's happening tomorrow:
Brazil plays USA in the final of Men's Beach VB. I'm cheering for Brazil this time.
Brazil also plays Georgia for the Bronze in BVB. The Georgians are Brazilians, but naturalized Georgians. So either way there will be 2 medals in Brazilian hands.
We'll cruise over to the indoor action to see USAxRussia and BrazilxItaly semis. There could be another vball final between BrazilxUSA on Sunday. That would be nuts!! Saturday is the women's indoor finals and I also have a feeling it'll be BrazilxUSA. WOW! Talk about best of both worlds for us. We get to see both our teams plays all at once, and somehow Mike and I don't hate each other during the matches.

Quick update at 10pm on 8.21.08: Brazil beat China and USA beat Cuba in Women's Indoor vball. Gold Medal match will be BrazilxUSA on Saturday morning.

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Blissful feet.



Renatha and Mike and Justin getting our "quintessence" pedicures on the fourth floor of Yashow Market in Beijing, China.

Some daily doings.





Chinglish: No lingering!

More Chinglish: Quintessence pedicure. Whatever it is, it was fantastic. My feet have never looked better and all for $25.

Renatha getting a head, neck, shoulder massage. Thirty minutes for $5. FIVE DOLLARS! (That's it.)

Friday, August 15, 2008

Nice surroundings.




Outside and inside shots of the Yosemite Village complex clubhouse. Yosemite Village is where our hosts reside on the outskirts of Beijing.

Silk Market.




Renatha and I in the Silk Street Market. The Silk Market is absolutely crazy, with hundreds of shops on six levels, all selling knock-offs and copies and every category of shop selling pretty much the same merchandise: same shoes in the shoe shops. Same watches in the watch shops. Same shirts in the shirt shops. Shop until you drop, but don't enter into negotiations unless you are prepared to pay up if you strike a purchase price. I saw several occasions of young women minding a shop pulling on the arm of a customer who was trying to move off. Aggresive, aggresive, aggresive. However, if one negotiates well, even like when we struck a really good price, the shopgirls loved you. We went back several times to several different shops that we had previously bought from and were always well-received!

Chinese National Acrobatic Troupe




Thursday night, while Justin was attending Jake's and Sean's volleyball match, for which Ren and I couldn't get tickets, we accompanied the Curtis's to Pizza Hut and then to the Poly Theater in downtown Beijing to watch the Chinese National Acrobatic Troupe--a combination of the familiar and the new! The troupe is a-ma-zing! They use all sorts of props and apparatuses, like trays with glasses and spinning plates and poles, ladders, and hoops. Plus, they throw each other, balance on one another, Flip, tumble, bend, and balance, and gosh, there just aren't words. The hoops that I am pictured with are the exact hoops and height that one of the acrobats jumped through after doing two round-offs and a leap. He failed on his first attempt, but went through on the second attempt (He had to land on his hands, coming down head first). I tried to stand on my tip-toes to give you perspective of how high over my head that hoop is, but I couldn't get my heels to the full height of the curb. Nonetheless, my head is only a few inches lower than correct perspective. The floor-to-hoop height is 3.1 meters (10' 2").

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Day at the Wall






Jake's family, the Gibbs, arranged for a small bus to take them to the Great Wall on Wednesday. They invited Ren, Justin, and I to accompany them. We boarded the bus at their downtown condo location and snaked our way through Beijing cars, trucks, buses, scooters, and bicycles. (I can't tell you how often, as we have made our way about the city in cars, taxis, and buses, how often we have narrowly missed being hit by a bicycle. Bicyclists own the road in Beijing, and if one is not careful, s/he will be plowed over by one). As we continued, the traffic ebbed and soon, the bus was on rural roads, passing by small towns whose signage indicated that we were far, far, far from home. Soon though, we began making our way through a few vehicles, then passed a parking lot, and then a sea of vehicles, buses, and pedestrians. All those photos we have seen of the Great Wall never included the mayhem and market place at the base of the mountains upon which the Wall is situated. I should've taken a picture of it all, but all I have is that photo of Ren and I eating noodles and mystery meat at an outdoor table. To access the Wall, we boarded a six-person tram. Then we mounted the Wall through a small portal: Wow! I can't say that I was overly or underly impressed with it all, except to say that, after all the pictures and lore, it was wonderful to be there. Truly, the Wall extends as far over peaks and valleys as I could see. 20 feet wide and 20 feet tall, with guard house every so often: The enormity of the construction project is what I was impressed with. The effort to get the materials to the site simply to begin construction would have been enormous!!! We meandered about on the steep inclines and sometimes very shallow rising steps and sometimes very steeply rising steps for about two hours. We descended on a chair lift over the tobogan run (that we could have used to descend if we were willing to wait in line for an hour) that you can see pictured in one of the photos. At the base, we milled about for another 90 minutes, eating, shopping, and almost buying a banana that one woman asked $3 for. I declined and did not even try to enter negotiations. EVERYTHING is negotiable in a Chinese market! We sacked out on the hour bus ride back to Beijing.

--Mike V.

Chinglish signs at the Great Wall




More Chinglish signs at the Great Wall.

Food for thought!

We've been staying in a luxury compound where embassy workers live as well as other oil execs like the Curtis'. They have American food and their club house, which is of literal palatial size has a 5 star gym and spa, restaurant, reception facilities and more. So we've not been too privy to the Chinese delicacies. A couple of nights ago after visiting the wall with the Gibb family, we went to a noodle bar. We ordered noodles with beef brisket and I almost became a vegetarian that night. The noodles were great and the broth exquisite, but the meat.... It had pieces of tripe stuck to it and as soon as I saw it there's was no way I was going to put that meat in my mouth. Mike ate all of his and loved it. Next time we see something crazy we will have to take detailed pictures. But that little experience with tripe definitely got me thinkin'. American cereal has never tasted so good to me.

ps: The Chinese eat noodles and broth for every meal of the day. We haven't even seen a bowl of rice yet. Kung Fu Panda was very accurate.
-Reni V.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

What's in a name?



A post, among many, on a bulletin board in the main office of the upscale housing office where our hosts live. (Click on image to enlarge.)

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Chinglish.


My cousin, Heather, asked me to be on the look out for signs in "Chinglish." Y'know, the type of signs that have phrases that you're not quite sure what the message is--whose translation was executed by a first-year English student using only a Chinese-English dictionary.

This phots was taken next to the concession stand at the beach volleyball venue. And speaking for the concessions at the Olympic venues . . . man, they left our group extremely hungry by the end of day. Zipping around by taxi left us no time to grab a bite in a streetside eatery or something. Of course, we thought we could get a sandwich, a bowl of rice, maybe even a scorpion-on-a-stick at the venue concessions. Nope. The best they had was "vitamin bread"--essentially a plain roll wrapped in paper packaging. There were chips, and Snickers, and ice cream cones, but nothing substantive. All day, we subsisted on vitamin bread and Coke. Thank goodness for burgers and nachos. Now that's substantive!!

--Mike V.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Beijing

Beijing, China . . . let that spill from your lips. When Beijing, China tumbles from my lips, it seems exotic, faraway, barely imaginable. Now tack on Olympics: Beijing, China and the Olympics. Does that go together and is it possible to insert myself and my wife into the festivities? My head can't process Beijing, Olympics, and Ren and I there all at once. Our impending sally across continents and into Red China isn't quite registering. And we leave in four days!

We will be posting regular updates to the blog, including our experiences to and fro and everything in between. If there's anything you want to know about, have a picture taken of, bought for you, or have Ren and I do, then throw out your requests. Our adventure is your adventure and we truly want you to come along.

--Mike V.